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Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

Wait, come back.

This is delicious, I promise.

For some people, there is probably no phrase in the English/Yiddish language more unwelcome than “Moosewood Cookbook borscht.” You might be thinking, “Mushy cabbage without any meat to redeem it? No thanks!” But I think borscht gets a bad rap mostly because of its name; the word seems to conjure up images of a smelly old Russian lady standing over you until you finish your meal. It certainly sounds like something you’d have to be forced to eat.

Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

Luckily, I am not a smelly old Russian lady, and I’m probably several thousand miles away from you. (This is good for both of us, because I prefer to hide behind my computer screen.) I won’t force you to make this or eat it. I will just strongly recommend it, since it’s one of the best meals to come out of my kitchen in a while. Also, I’ll show you pretty pictures of it in the hopes that that will convince you.

Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

What would definitely convince you is if these pictures were scratch-n-sniff. Ohhh my goodness. My whole apartment smelled amazing while this was on the stove and for hours afterwards. There is really nothing better than the smell of onions being sauteed in butter wafting through your kitchen. I never thought a vegetarian dish of mostly cabbage and beets could smell or taste so incredibly rich, but this manages to. Can I bottle up a borscht scent to use as a perfume?

OK, maybe now we’re getting into smelly old Russian lady territory.

In any case, I’m head-over-heels in love with this borscht, and I have my Grandma Jane to thank. (Hi Grandma!) For the record, my grandma is neither smelly nor Russian; she is Midwestern, super fit, and an amazing gardener and cook. A few years ago, she did her very own borscht cook-off, auditioning multiple borscht recipes until she found the best one, which she then cooked for my family at Christmastime. I was skeptical, I have to admit. Cabbage dishes did not make a regular appearance in my mom’s cooking rotation. But it was love at first bite, and that was way before I ceased eating meat or started naming cabbage among my favorite foods.

Bottom line: You, too, may be skeptical. You may not like cabbage. Or beets. Or dill. But you will love this borscht.

It’s so simple, and tastes so rich yet fresh at the same time… I really can’t describe it. You will have to make it for yourself, unless you’re lucky enough to have a grandma who will make it for you.

Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

I made this dish with butter and topped it with Greek yogurt, but if you’d like to make it vegan, you could just as well start with Earth Balance and omit the yogurt/sour cream topping (or use a vegan substitute). It will be fabulous either way. What I would urge you not to leave out are the caraway seeds and dill. This dish is very simple and lightly seasoned – you’ll notice most of the ingredients are veggies – and so leaving out either of those seasonings will hurt it, in my opinion.

This recipe scales very well, as long as you have a big enough pot! I should also note that the original recipe calls for 2 teaspoons of salt, but I found that to be a little much. I’d recommend starting with 1 teaspoon of salt, and then adding a bit more at the end to your liking.

Moosewood Cookbook Borscht

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Moosewood Cookbook Borscht
 
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This Russian cabbage stew will convert you from carnivore to cabbage-lover.
Author:
Serves: 4

Ingredients
  • 4 cups vegetable stock
  • 1 cup diced beets (about 1 medium-sized beet, peeled)
  • 1 1/2 cups diced potato (I used 1 Yukon gold potato)
  • 2 Tbs butter or Earth Balance
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion (about 1 onion)
  • 1-2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp caraway seeds
  • 1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 stalk celery, sliced
  • 3 cups chopped red cabbage
  • 1 cup tomato puree
  • 1 Tbsp cider vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp honey
  • 1/4 tsp chopped fresh dill
  • black pepper to taste
To top:
  • fresh tomatoes, diced
  • sour cream or Greek yogurt
  • additional fresh dill

Instructions
  1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, bring vegetable stock, beets, and potatoes to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until tender, about 12-15 minutes. (It’s OK if the potatoes are a bit more tender than the beets.) Drain, reserving the stock, and set aside.
  2. In the same pot, heat butter over medium heat. Add onions, caraway seeds and 1 tsp salt, and saute until the onion is translucent, about 3-4 minutes. Add carrot, celery, cabbage, and reserved vegetable stock. Cover and simmer until all the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in potatoes, beets, and all remaining ingredients.
  3. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. Taste and add more salt if desired.
  4. Serve immediately, topped with chopped fresh tomatoes, Greek yogurt or sour cream, and a sprinkle of fresh dill.

Notes
Adapted from Mollie Katzen’s The New Moosewood Cookbook.

 

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Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup for Passover

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

I may not be Jewish, but I still love a good matzo ball soup.

I think of it as the ultimate comfort food. Like chicken noodle soup, but no mushy bits of noodles floating around in it – just fluffy pillows of matzo ball bliss.

I have childhood memories of being comforted by matzo ball soup, specifically when I had a terrible cold on a drive down to my grandma’s house in New York. We stopped at Rein’s Deli in Connecticut and after slurping up a steaming bowl of matzo ball soup, I finally felt human again. It’s really amazing what soup can do.

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

You may or may not be aware that the Jewish holiday of Passover started on Monday night, a.k.a. the only time of year that you can find matzo in Salt Lake City (and even then it was a struggle involving three grocery stores and a near breakdown in Whole Foods). Growing up outside of Boston, I had lots of Jewish friends and Passover food was always a special treat. Like any Gentile kid, I loved eating the matzo that my Jewish friends brought to school during Passover but were too perennially sick of to actually eat for lunch. Clearly I took the grocery store availability of matzo for granted! I never thought of my suburban hometown as an especially diverse place, so the state of Utah did not score any points during my mad matzo hunt this past weekend.

Although I no longer live within striking distance of Rein’s Deli, my craving for matzo ball soup is as strong as ever. And it is soooo easy to make you won’t believe it – a little matzo meal and you’re in business. I personally plan on stocking up so I can make this year round!

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

So let’s put that vegetable stock from yesterday to good use. If you can’t find matzo meal, just pulse a few pieces of matzo in a food processor until powdery. I have to emphasize that the finer you can grind up the matzo, the better the matzo balls will come out. I found out firsthand that a coarse crumb really will not do – you want a powder, which will take a few minutes in the food processor. And whatever you do, don’t skip the dill!

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

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Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup for Passover
 
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Author:
Serves: 8-12 matzo balls, enough for 3-4 people

Ingredients
For the matzo balls:
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 1/2 cup matzo meal (or matzo ground to a powder in a food processor)
  • 2 Tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 tsp kosher salt (reduce to 1/2 tsp if using salted matzo)
  • 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
  • 2 Tbsp seltzer
For the soup:
  • 2 to 3 quarts vegetable stock
  • 2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
  • several sprigs fresh dill

Instructions
  1. In a small bowl, mix all matzo ball ingredients together. Cover and refrigerate for half an hour.
  2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Reduce heat. Wet hands and form matzo balls by dropping a small spoonful of batter onto your palm and rolling it into a loose ball. Drop into water one by one. Cover and simmer gently for 30-40 minutes. The matzo balls will grow considerably in size.
  3. With about 10 minutes left on the matzo balls, bring your vegetable stock to a boil in a medium-sized pot and add the sliced carrot. If the stock is unsalted, salt to taste at this point. Once the matzo balls are finished, ladle them into bowls. Ladle broth and carrots over the top and garnish with a few pieces of dill. Serve immediately.
  4. Enjoy!

Notes
Matzo balls can be stored for up to 48 hours in the refrigerator. To store, cool to room temperature, place in a single layer in an airtight container, and cover with room temperature cooking liquid. Store broth separately. Adapted from Smitten Kitchen.

 

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Simple Roasted Vegetable Stock

Simple Roasted Vegetable Stock

A few months ago, I had a failed veggie stock experiment. It was my first attempt and I’m not sure what went wrong; I think I used too many greens and too few carrots and onions. And maybe too much water? Regardless, it was very disheartening, as I’ve never had a problem making meat-based stocks. It convinced me for a while that vegetable stock should be left to the pros, and I’ve been buying it from Whole Foods ever since.

Recently, though, I wanted to make a soup that just uses a simple broth for the base (recipe coming tomorrow!), and I felt like I couldn’t cop out and use store-bought stuff. If I’m going to use store-bought broth, I at least want it to be hidden, you know? So I gave the ol’ veggie stock another shot, and this time I roasted the vegetables to make sure they would be flavorful enough. Success! If veggie stock should be left to the pros, well, consider me one of them… and you can be, too.

Simple Roasted Vegetable Stock

Making your own stock really isn’t as scary as it sounds, and it’s also cheaper than buying it. And I should point out that it’s much quicker than making chicken stock. Unlike meat-based stocks, simmering vegetable stock for longer does not give it more flavor, so an hour is all you need. And as a bonus, you’ll feel like Martha Stewart as your kitchen fills with the scent of your homemade stock bubbling on the stove. For some reason, this always makes me feel like I really have my life together. Ego boost in a soup pot? Sure, I’ll take it!

Get crackin’ on this homemade vegetable stock so you can be prepared for the soup recipe coming tomorrow!

Simple Roasted Vegetable Stock

Simple Roasted Vegetable Stock
 
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Author:
Serves: 3-4 quarts

Ingredients
  • 2 carrots, rinsed and roughly chopped
  • 2 parsnips, rinsed and roughly chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, rinsed and roughly chopped
  • greens of 1 leek, thoroughly cleaned and roughly chopped
  • 2 yellow onions, skins left on, quartered
  • 3 garlic cloves, peels left on
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil (more or less)
  • 1 small bunch parsley
  • 4-5 sprigs of thyme
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves

Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400. Place vegetables (carrots through garlic) in a roasting pan. Drizzle with olive oil (I probably used about 2 Tbsp but you can use more or less) and toss to coat. Roast for 45 minutes, stirring about every 10-15 minutes to ensure that nothing burns. If you notice that any of the vegetables are starting to char before the time is up, remove them and continue cooking the rest. Some caramelization is fine, but not charring! The leek greens are especially prone to burn.
  2. Remove from oven and place the vegetables in a large pot with the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Cover with cold water. (The more water you use, the less concentrated the flavor of your stock will be.) Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour. (A few minutes more or less is fine.)
  3. Strain into storage containers. If not using in the next day or two, freeze until ready to use.

 

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7 Comments

Filed under Soups, Techniques, Vegan, Vegetarian